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I Ate Ice Cream at Bali’s Biggest Rubbish Dump
I notice the wildlife before the people. Between the hoards of holy cows and scavengers of the sky, there’s fierce competition for edible waste. I’m ankle deep in rubbish before I notice nimble fingers combing through the dump. This is Suwung, the largest official landfill site in Bali—a 44-hectare cleared plot of land. Once a…
The Power of a Pair of Hands
At the crisp hour of seven on a winter’s morning, I arrived in Venice. The city was eerily empty and quiet in its waking hours. As I wandered through wispy fog, I caught a glimpse of its timeless charm: a baker arranging brioche behind a golden window front, a pair of painters repairing flaking pastel…

Astray is run by a team of writers who mostly live, work and play in nipaluna / Hobart. With reverence, we acknowledge the Tasmanian Aboriginal people as the traditional and ongoing custodians of trouwunna / lutruwita / Tasmania: land that was stolen and never ceded. We pay our respects to Elders past, present and emerging.