
I was leaning against a boulder on Uluwatu beach, watching disco lights and reggae music dance across hanging vegetation and out over the waves. Suddenly…

You step out from Denpasar airport into the throbbing tourist masses of Kuta, this fresh new hell on earth. Tropical paradise transmogrified into a festering…

I felt embarrassed and degraded, as though I’d been turned back into a screaming infant who didn’t know how to shit on its own. My…